

VINEYARDS AND DOWNPOURS IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE
A LOVE LETTER TO THE UNPLANNED TOUR
Location: Gironde region, France
Rider: Aphra Evans
Bikes: Adventure Disc 1 & 2
Camera: Minolta XG-1
Route: Top 10 Gironde bike rides
Some cycle tours require meticulous planning – a different place to sleep every night, train times, ferry times, stop offs for coffee at the perfect moment.
Our cycling trip to Bordeaux this April was joyously unplanned. We had decided to make our annual trip more accessible, since its reputation was still tarnished from a rainy and challenging Lôn Las Cymru in 2023.
We rented two houses, one for a few days in the wine producing region east of Bordeaux then one in the peninsula to the west, known for its oysters and beaches. There were 10 of us and we thought the south of France would give the weather while avoiding bikepacking would let everyone pick a distance, elevation and general vibe that suited them each day.
That decision gave the holiday its own unique flavour. We ate dinner well past 11pm on the first night because one group wildly misjudged how much time to spend eating ice cream and patisserie in Bordeaux, before they cycled back in darkness and deep mud on a gravel route which required a decent amount of chucking bikes over gates.


Another day, I let Komoot design a 50km gravel route to Arès, the sleepy seaside town where our second house was. While the rest of the group lounged on a beach before sunning themselves at a cocktail bar, I found myself testing the abilities of the Adventure Disc 2 on sand tracks through forest and farmland for much of the day.
Easter Sunday saw sideways rain so intense that a few French people felt compelled to apologise to us. We spent the day venturing out in small groups, waterproofs on, squinting in the 45 mph gusts of wind, before scurrying back to the woodburning stove where our socks hung to dry. We nearly all received photos of sunshine and blue skies from Blighty.

I guess this is a love letter to the cycling trips that go slightly awry. Partly because they become something of an experiment in type two fun (enjoyable after the fact, if not in the moment), but also because they throw up surprises which feel all the more delicious for the backdrop of grey skies, soggy shoes and sleep deprivation.
The day I was cycling mostly on sand, I was rewarded by sunshine, views and the serendipitous appearance of a cycle superhighway through endless pine forest which delivered me almost exactly where I needed to be.
When we cycled to Saint Emilion, home to the first vineyard to become a UNESCO world heritage site, one friend had her first experience of bonking before being blown away by the perfectly preserved, postcard-picturesque medieval village with its cobbled streets and a church carved from a limestone cliff, surrounded by endless vineyards and stately homes.
Another highlight was Musette bike cafe in Bordeaux, an independent shop stocking well-loved smaller brands where some of our group rented gravel bikes. The coffee and chat from the two cofounders – Rob from the US and Chris from Cornwall – are both excellent, and they pride themselves on organising community ride-outs. They also kindly stored a bike box for me.
APHRA'S BIKE
Adventure Disc 2
Adventure Disc 2
2 colours available

TIM'S BIKE
Adventure Disc 1
Adventure Disc 1
2 colours available



Additional photos by @inbruge and @films_by_amy
In 2019, Bordeaux was ranked sixth in the world for bicycle-friendliness. It's also perfect for whiling away sunny days drinking and eating in plazas, trying local wine and exploring independent shops. Plus, if you’re walking through the streets of the city with a bike box and don’t really fancy paying for a taxi, pray for the bin man who stopped and offered to carry mine in the back of his truck for a while.

Gironde as a region comes highly recommended particularly for beginner and leisure-focused cyclists as it is largely flat, with expansive views of pine, national parks, coastline and vineyards at every turn. There are a good mix of road and gravel routes, and part of La Velodyssée, which goes down the entirety of the Atlantic coast of France, runs through the region. Make sure you see the impressive Dune du Pilat, try to eat a fresh croissant every morning, and if you can, stop at Le Shed in Lanton for fresh oysters. They’re delicious, even in the driving rain.
Adventure bikes
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Adventure Disc 1
Adventure Disc 1
2 colours available
Adventure Disc 2
Adventure Disc 2
2 colours available
Adventure Disc 3
Adventure Disc 3
2 colours available
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